Noyo Hill Farm:
A Fort Bragg Phenomenon

Story by Margi Gomez

When John Richardson first saw the west-facing slopes of what is now Noyo Hill Farm in 2003, his heart skipped a beat. Having farmed extensively for many years in the hills above Santa Cruz, and then later in the Point Arena area, John says he has always had the soul of a farmer. “I have always had a garden, since I was a kid. From the time I graduated from high school, I wanted to farm full time.” Supporting himself for a time with commercial mushroom production, and also with State Fish & Game and Marine Fisheries work, he jumped at the opportunity to turn the fallow fields above the Noyo Harbor into a working farm.

A visit to Noyo Hill Farm starts with a lovely garden welcome of brilliant flowers and culinary herbs that border the house that Joanne Frazer grew up in. She recalls that her forebears in the turn-of-the-century Andreani-Cooney homestead that she still calls home kept a few cows, planted fruit trees, and grew a kitchen garden. Like many in those days, Joanne says, they grew what they could to supplement their incomes, but, “They never really farmed.”
Now, rows of colorful vegetables and a hedge of nodding sunflowers define the gentle slope that forms a wide knob above the sparkling Pacific at the mouth of the Noyo River. “It really became a farm in 2003 when John came and saw the potential here,” says Joanne. “We just kept moving the fence out!” Behind the house, wandering chicken clucks softly, and boxes bursting with produce wait in the shade for friends and neighbors, who will soon enjoy the bounty in their home kitchens.

Noyo Hill Farm now grows and sells nearly thirty different crops, from basil, beets and broccoli to spinach, strawberries, and squash. John, who has been farming organically since 1970, works pretty much from dawn to dusk every day, and Joanne works Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, as well as helps work the Wednesday [Fort Bragg] Farmers Market. John says he has been gratified to discover that there really is a market for the fruits of their labor. “I have found that here I can produce something that people want with very low technology, and I have been really surprised to realize that pretty much everyone eats vegetables!” Despite the long hours and hard work, John says that he finds great joy in his chosen work. “There’s something about watching plants grow, about planting a tiny seed and seeing it become a big, productive plant. I really love plants that grow taller than I am, like sweet corn and trellised cucumbers. It’s just thrilling to me.”

In the garden, John and Joanne have found ways to lengthen the growing season and plant crops that push the edge of what is thought to be easy to grow in our area. Propagation can start in the very early spring and continue on into the fall, as evidenced by the hundreds of tiny Brassica and other plants sprouting there. The “Propagation Room,” a greenhouse on the property dedicated solely to seed starting, uses an “Ebb and Flood” watering system that saves time and effort, and provides water to the bottom of root systems where tiny plants really need it. This and other techniques used at Noyo Hill Farm point to their creative and efficient approach to farming.

Hoop houses, or “high tunnels,” covered in special breathable plastic and garden cloth, allow crops such as beets and lettuce to be started in late winter, healthy tomatoes to grow well into the fall, and sweet corn to grow tall within sight of the Pacific. Techniques such as these also protect crops from certain insects and from hungry birds. John and Joanne also use biodegradable covering that resembles black plastic around plants to prevent weeds and to raise the soil temperature a critical few degrees, allowing for higher production and better flavor.

Always looking for new ideas that will allow them to grow more and better crops, they are considering keeping a flock of Muscovy ducks, which roost in trees and eat bugs, snails and rodents, as well as providing a potential source of composting material. Moveable fences and low “tunnels” will allow them to move the animals where and when they are needed.

John and Joanne are constantly on the lookout for new ways to maximize production, and Joanne says they’ve been helped by many of their fellow farmers, most of whom are eager to exchange tips and lessons learned. “John talks to everyone,” Joanne says. “The farming community is really very open that way. We know we need each other!”

As every farmer knows, a small group of determined pests can make all the difference between good crop and a dismal one. At Noyo Hill Farm, they are looking at various methods of controlling predators such as gophers and moles, including keeping house-cats, that old standby, along with the encouragement of predatory birds such as hawks and owls. John also enjoys using his favorite tool, the “walking tractor,” a versatile tiller that comes with a number of attachments, such as one that can reach down into rodent burrows, knocking their populations back before they can gain a destructive foothold.

When it comes to the burrowing rodents that plague coastal gardeners and farmers, Joanne recalls a bit of Buddhist philosophy that frames the physical world as a “dream” that sentient beings dream. She chuckles, “When I see how much these critters can consume, sometimes I think they must have been the ones to dream up this whole farm idea!”

Joanne and John both say that one of their favorite things about the Farm is the social connectivity that it brings, with customers, other farmers, and workshop participants. “I actually think of my customers as family, “says Joanne. “We connect with a lot of people at the Farmers Market, and with our weekly subscribers we can get even closer to our neighbors. We get to know their habits and preferences, and meet the kids. I really enjoy it.”

John concurs, saying, “One of the gifts of this garden has been the sense of community that I have gained, especially when it comes to our most regular customers. They are directly supporting our livelihood, and we are providing the basics that they need to live. It’s just the most basic relationship that exists in any society.”

Along with their weekly setup at the Fort Bragg Farmers Market, John and Joanne have been experimenting with a number of other marketing ideas that help them bring their goods to market and get through the winter. In the spring they sell coupons called “Green Bucks.” The system allows customers a way to support their venture at a time when it is most needed, and reap the harvest on a weekly basis—at a discount. Joanne notes, “This helps us get our season going. This is the time we need to buy seed and fertilizer, and we always need to update the other infrastructure that we depend on.”

Joanne explains that the “Community Supported Agriculture” idea began a few years ago, when she and John realized that they still had quite a bit of produce left even after the Farmers Market closed for the season. “We asked for signups, and were really gratified by the results. The next year we planted even more winter crops, and subscriptions have been growing steadily ever since.”

Joanne and John use e-mail to stay in touch with these regular customers and anyone else who wants to order up a weekly box of veggies. Customer comments are printed up on the produce lists that are included with each box. Weekly newsletters are another way that the folks at Noyo Hill Farm reach out to subscribers and potential customers alike, and they also offer an amazing variety of intriguing recipes on their interesting and informative Webpage,
including links to other fascinating gardening Websites.

Noyo Hill Farm also presents seasonal workshops in such subjects as seed propagation, hoop house construction, and transplanting, drawing in volunteers, friends, and family eager for knowledge, and proving the old adage, “Many hands make light work.” Joanne asserts, “The workshops have really helped. One time we had twenty people at a seed-starting workshop, and we were able to plant the first big crop in no time.” The workshops are a lot of fun. One of the more unusual workshops that John gave recently was on growing Oyster mushrooms. John, who studied with Washington State mushroom guru Paul Stamets, grew mushrooms commercially for ten years. The edible mushrooms that have been grown on Noyo Hill Farm have ended up in weekly customer boxes alongside the colorful vegetables.

As for all farmers, autumn, with all its bounty, is a bittersweet time. Days are shorter, growing cycles longer, and productivity inevitably slows. Joanne looks at the change of seasons in a predictably optimistic way. “I decided I like the fall,” she smiles. “John gets back to the house earlier, and there’s finally time to research and plan for next year.”

John adds that he has had countless mentors over the years, and evening reading has played a big role in the innovations that have allowed Noyo Hill Farm to become a working farm. “Creative thinking is really critical to success,” he says. “There have been many writers whose ideas have meant a lot to me, but I would point to Elliot Coleman as probably the most valuable thinker when it comes to growing a lot of produce on a small plot. He has written a number of great manuals dealing with specific subjects, with great ideas about everything about efficiency, composting, marketing, and winter gardening. His book The New Organic Grower is one of my favorites.”

Joanne muses on some of the forces that have inspired farmers in the past and now. “At the turn of the century, the Mendocino Coast provided peas, potatoes, and other crops to people as far away as San Francisco! If we had to do it again, we could. The climate is mild, and for the most part, the soil is good. Flours and grains would be a challenge, but I don’t doubt that we could survive. Actually, we could do more than survive—I think we could thrive!”

They may be optimistic, but like all farmers, Joanne and John are also realistic, and have experienced failure alongside success over the years. New plantings of plums and other fruits have failed, and a project to raise meat animals was curtailed when they found five fattened lambs dead one morning, killed by an unknown predator. But Joanne says they wouldn’t have it any other way. “Let’s face it, if you only looked at how much work is involved, you would never do it! You have to have the passion.”

For more information about direct ordering Noyo Hill Farm’s fresh produce, seasonal workshops, or receiving their weekly newsletters you can contact Joanne Frazer and John Richardson through their Website at www.noyohillfarm.com, e-mailing to info@noyohillfarm.com, or by calling them at 707-357-2295.

Two great Noyo Hill Farm Newsletter Recipes:

Fiesta Slaw
by Joanne Frazer

Although a mix of red, orange, and yellow peppers will provide the prettiest appearance, this slaw can be made with just one type of bell pepper. For a spicier slaw, do not remove the inner flesh and seeds from the jalapeño. Very thin strips of bell pepper are essential for this recipe, so make sure your knife is plenty sharp.

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons lime juice plus 1/2 teaspoon grated zest from 1 lime
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 medium jalapeño chilis, seeded and minced
4 medium bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1/4 inch strips
1/3 cup minced fresh cilantro

Whisk lime juice, zest, oil, garlic, jalapeño, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper together in large bowl. Add peppers and cilantro and toss well to combine. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. Serve.

Asian Slaw
by anonymous

1 bunch (6 large) scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 small red cabbage and 1 small Napa cabbage (approximately 16 oz. each)
1 small red onion, thinly sliced (half moons)
4 medium carrots or equivalent of small peeled baby carrots, sliced or diced
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger (from about a 1-inch piece)
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
2 tablespoons sesame seeds, optional
1/2 cup unsalted peanuts, optional
1 teaspoon salt
Several grounds of freshly ground black pepper

Rough up the scallion slices a little with your fingers so all the layers of the scallion whites separate. Toss cabbages, carrots, red onion together in a large bowl until thoroughly mixed. You can make the slaw up to this point up to a day in advance as long as you keep it refrigerated. Before serving, simply bring the slaw back to room temperature, make the dressing, and toss.

Stir the remaining ingredients (except peanuts) together in a small bowl until blended, pour over the vegetables. Serve within one hour of dressing or the cabbage will wilt.

When slaw is dressed, add peanuts and toss. Serve immediately.